I offer three levels of repair:

The Quick Fix:

This is a basic testing and repair of obvious faults. This should be considered a stop-gap measure to simply get the equipment safely operational, NOT intended to bring the equipment back to original specifications or ensure long-term reliability or freedom from nuisance crackles and minor noises.

Power tube bias is checked and adjusted, if necessary. Power tubes are also matched into pairs for each channel. I clean all switches and rotary controls. AC power line leakage tested. AC current draw verified to be within spec. Fuse replaced.

Tubes are NOT tested. Power supply capacitors are NOT replaced, unless they hum audibly. AM/FM sections are NOT aligned. Equipment is guaranteed to work for 30 days only.

Labor: $90 + parts, shipping and sales tax (NYS only)

An EICO 2080 (essentially an improved EICO ST70 without the bugs!), I recently repaired.

A Fisher X-202-C in for repair.

Audio Carpetorium, LLC

Full repair:

Same as the Quick Fix, but adds:

I pull all tubes and test them in my Hickok 580, re-tension all miniature tube sockets, replace all power supply caps whether or not they hum, then check all voltages at all tubes to ensure they are correct. If they aren't, I troubleshoot to find the cause of the problem and fix it.

Replacement of power cord with 3-wire grounded cord and I add an inrush current thermistor. (This allows me to replace the existing fuse with a much-smaller one for increased safety.) I also identify weak tubes and will replace them, if requested. Phase Inverter adjustment for minimum distortion. 24-hour idling of equipment to shake out any hidden bugs.

Guarantee is extended to 90 days parts and labor.

Labor: $140 + parts, shipping and sales tax (NYS only)

Deluxe repair:

Same as the Full Repair, but adds:

Alignment of AM/FM/FM Stereo sections. Replacement of all coupling capacitors with mylar (or a brand of your choosing) and full-power test into a dummy load and measurement of harmonic distortion. Any ONE simple modification to wiring or chassis (such as the addition of an IEC power inlet, the moving of a power switch or rebuilding the phono section) would also be included. (If you wanted more than one of those mods., that would be extra.)

Labor: $190 + parts, shipping and sales tax (NYS only)

An EICO HF81 with new Kobiconn RCA input jacks mounted on a custom FR4 epoxy board and an IEC power inlet (taking the place of the original AC accessory outlet and power cord). Inside the cage, you see the tubes pulled from their sockets, boxed and bubblewrapped for safekeeping on their journey back to the customer.

The black disk on the back of the Treble/Power Switch is the inrush current limiting thermistor I added to an EICO HF81.

Here we see the internals of the Fisher X-202-C shown above. It was quite a challenge to find room for the replacement filter capacitors!

Here's the guts of a 6L6 push-pull stereo amp that somebody scratch-built back in the day. I converted it from fixed-bias to cathode bias, added an extra input and a ganged volume control, in place of the original single-gang pots.

An Ampeg with a broken Tremolo circuit I repaired and sold on eBay some years ago.